Penetrating Oils vs. Non-Penetrating. Which ones are better?

I received a really great question the other day from someone inquiring about penetrating oils versus non-penetrating oils and which ones I thought were better.   The question was so good that I decided to address via a blog post.  So lets talk about this for the next few minutes shall we?

First off, when we talk about penetrating oils, what we mean is how great the oil's ability to penetrate the hair shaft and permeate into the cuticle layer.  I wrote on this subject long ago in this post.  Basically, the individuals who studied this phenomena were looking to determine how much of the oil was absorbed into the strand after time elapsed and through the use of heat.  Based on their findings it was determined that coconut oil and other mono saturated oils performed (or absorbed) better into the hair shaft than their poly saturated counterparts.

Once the news got out, everyone and their momma went clamoring for coconut and other penetrating oils (rightfully so) but in the process, other oils that penetrated more slowly (or not as deeply) were shunned.  In the case of my friend who asked me the original question, she mentioned that she was dealing with some breakage and thought it would be best to focus on penetrating oils like coconut to help nurse her hair back to health.  I completely agreed.

As a matter of fact, whenever my hair starts miss behaving, I often will reach for coconut oil as an overnight pre-poo remedy.  This way I know that my fragile strands are receiving beneficial proteins all the way down to it's deepest core.  Doing this definitely makes a world of difference for me.

But let's talk about the other side of things.  The oils that don't get as much love because because they don't penetrate as quickly or as deeply.  Should we shun them away completely?  I say no.  The topic of conversation came up because she was in the midst of deciding whether to purchase Gleau or opt for coconut oil instead.  My response was that this was not an either or scenario but one where she should choose both.

Reason being is because plant oils all have various God given attributes.  Just because it doesn't penetrate as quickly as coconut doesn't mean there aren't any benefits.  There is a time and place for oils that penetrate a bit more slowly especially if the oil will be used for sealing purposes.  I'm not sure if coconut oil is the best oil for sealing in moisturizer because, as time elapses, the oil moves inside the strand.  What about oils like wheat germ which contain the all wonderful ceramides that our cuticle layers need so dearly?  Let's not forget about jojoba oil which mimics sebum so closely that it protects our hair strand with lubrication like our very own scalp produced it.  Then there are oils like meadowfoam which partially penetrates so some of the goodness enters the strand and some is left to protect it.

Moral of the story is that it's best to be in a position where we can have our cake and eat it too. There is a place for oils that fully penetrate deep down and there's also room to invite others that will also take care of the outer strand.  Although I don't experience really cold winters, I do sometimes travel to cities where the cold weather can be brutal.  Luckily, for me, those trips are short lived but if I had to endure cold, brisk winds, I would certainly opt to incorporate thicker, heavier oils into my regimen during winter time.  I would want a layer of protection against the drying winds at all times.  Long story short, I advise everyone to freely incorporate penetrating oils like coconut, avocado, and olive oil.  Use them to treat the hair and to battle against breakage but don't forget that to incorporate other oils into your routine that can also be beneficial to your strands as well.

Be blessed.